I've been messing around with creating custom ones in Cad but you saved me a lot of time trying to find just right goldilocks supports that might not exist in Cura! Thank you! Good to know about the supports. Ofc Grid is an option, but a hard to remove option. Leaving random dripping to hit printed parts (specially thin one wall linea like supports) is ok if you print very slow (for me very slow is 30mm/s) but as soon you want to print faster you need to have all parameters under control. S3D forces retraction from a yo b on aupports (if the amount printed so allows it) and makes structutes more resistant (IMO). That why I really stopped trusting Cura support structures. The downside in my experience with that kind of tricks is that when printing again there's a gap of filament from the dripping from a to b, making the support less structured (and resistant) and that leaves some areas of the support more fragile when head moves and smash the support over and over with the nozzle drip (that colds from a to b on the tip) making every pass of the support (line after line) like if a small hammer hits on the weakest place. However these strings don't touch the model. When a move is required from support to another piece of support, no retraction is performed which causes stringing. In real life it's all printed as one STL file in one color and you easily break off those thin "red" walls. Here is a great example of what I mean by arcing support walls - the red portions on the lower left. The pva can have a smooth top surface for the PLA to lay down on top of and it will come out very nice. If you print with PVA it will make the pva stick out of the part - by default 3mm "horizontal expansion" which is perfect for these prints. So if you print like a doorframe - you dont' need support at the top of the door. A thin wall on the inner and outer edge of those bridging arcs. I'd make a very very thin wall that touches at the top in 5 or 6 spots. For cylindrical parts you really need support on both arcing walls. But for those L shaped holes you have to support the base of the L. You don't need any support for the square parts that have bridging. I would probably just put my own support in cad. I'm reasonably happy with the cura 2.X pva support options but those don't apply here. It's such a waste that you bought the um3 yet you are doing single filament - too bad you didn't get the UM2. I've never been 100% happy with cura support structures. I would greatly appreciate it because waiting hours for a print to finish only to have these issues is driving me crazy!Īnd while were at it is it possible to search the forums? I've googled and looked for an answer I promise! I've only found official ultimaker results using the search tool at the top, nothing from the forums. I had been using a support roof because I thought the solid layer would lead to a cleaner print line on the printed layer I want to keep, but I'm wondering if that's making it too tough to remove from delicate places.Įssentially the main connective theme of this post is what support settings in Cura have people found to be the best for producing clean prints and being easy to remove? What pattern, density, support roof, XY distance etc? I've tried increasing the horizontal support but that also makes the support layers harder to remove which is a problem as well due to the delicate nature of the prints.Īnd although I don't want the stringing to occur because it messes up the finish of the overhanging layer, if it doesn't string out, it is also almost impossible to remove because there's no gaps that you can kind of see in the image below. But the lower layers don't have this problem. Why does my print string out at the top but the bottom and middle layers are supported and solid as shown below? Almost like the top layers don't follow the circular pattern because they aren't lying on anything circular and just go point to point. Is the "lines" pattern harder on the printer than others due to the frequent stopping and starting? While other sides of the SAME print I have selected lines on utilize this more solid (but not concentric, much flimsier) support as shown below? Why do some sides print with the selected support pattern like "lines" shown in the photo below? I love the dissolvable support but am just talking about supports with the same PLA as printed for this post which I'm interested in also printing quality prints in because its cheaper and faster to print. I've got an ultimaker 3 that I've been attempting to print some pieces with Cura that have fairly large open areas that I think need support.
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